July 22 we made the trip with the RV to Gander. Had never heard of the place before, but oh boy, have we learned a lot since we arrived. Come to find out Gander has had a major influence on Aviation history because of it's location as the closest landing place in North America for most flights from Europe. More on that in a minute.
July 23 we drove up to Twillingate to another area we had heard was great for whale watching and ice bergs, but sadly, the ice bergs have all left! No prob, I got some great ice berg shots in St. Anthony. We did see a couple of whale's, but barely got a decent photo. I am still on the search for a great whale shot! However, seeing the coast line and meeting the tour guide was well worth the price of the tickets. We continue to be amazed at the hardiness of the Newfoundlanders, of Newfies as they call themselves. These coastal communities are all a million miles from a tea kettle and until the last 40 or 50 years there were no roads to or between them. Transportation was by boats or snow mobiles (they get up to 20 feet of snow). The land is so rocky and rugged that hacking out homesites is a major feat in itself. It's from the water that you look back and see just how difficult it is/was to settle in these areas. The lady that was our tour guide was a 5th generation fisherman/woman that because of the devastation being done by the International Fishing Companies and bottom dragging that is destroying the fishing grounds they have had to find a new way of life. Hence, tour boats!
On a sad note we received an email from my cousin Linda that one of our younger (68) cousin’s passed away after a massive heart attack. I am so saddened by this news. Unfortunately I had not seen him in many, many years, but always thought the time would come when we would make that extended California trip and visit all my cousins. It seemed that “some day” would be a good time to do it, but I think that “some day” has come and gone. I will always regret I didn’t do it when was Buz was still with us. I missed an opportunity to see all my cousins together when my Uncle Gordon passed. I had just had knee surgery and couldn’t fly, but I really wish now I had found a way.
July 24 we went to the North Atlantic Aviation Museum in Gander where there was a section that was a Memorial to 9/11 and their part in servicing the 38 flights (and 6,595 passengers) that were diverted to Gander after 9/11. Gander's population was around 10,000.
We also went to the Memorial for the 101st. Airborne that crashed here and killed 269 soldiers who were returning home. What an emotional day. To top it of I purchased a book at the museum: The Day The World Came to Town 9/11 in Gander, Newfoundland by Jim Defede. Once I started this book I could not put it down. I HIGHLY recommend the read, but have a box of Kleenex near by, I cried my way through every page. So moving and so incredible the fortitude, kindness and generosity of a people to complete strangers. Considering the overwhelming demoralization that 9/11 had on most people, these people made you realize that the world really is a good place, it's just a miserable few that are trying to destroy it. Gander played a lot larger part in Aviation history, but less I forget some details I will post photos of some highlights of what we learned. SOME DAY!
July 25 We drove to St John’s, which is the biggest City we have seen in all of Newfoundland. It a good size City built around a harbor full of history. Once we arrived and got settled in a hotel we walked up and down the 3 main streets. This is where the houses are all painted bright and different colors, George Street is similar to Bourbon Street in New Orleans and suddenly there are glass commercial buildings like any City in the US. We have seen nothing like this since we arrived in Newfoundland. There’s even a COSTCO!! When we were on the West Coast and did that boat in Gros Morne National Park we noticed Kirkland products at the snack bars….yup, they come all the way over here to Costco to do their shopping! Remember, there’s not much in between so really, this is as good as it gets.
July 26 We started on the Irish Route from St. John’s down to Witless. We are staying at a lovely B & B (Elaine’s) right on the harbor. Unfortunately it’s a foggy day and the view is limited, but earlier the fog lifted and we had a fabulous view. Her husband runs Eco Tours so if weather is good we will take one tomorrow to see Puffins and hopefully some whales. Still have high hopes of getting one awesome shot!
July 27 After starting off on the Irish Loop that goes all the way down to Tresspasy and back around we changed our mind because the fog was so thick. The whole road runs along the coast and we didn’t see any signs of a let up so have decided to head back to Gander by way of Bonavista where John Cabot first landed in 1947. Reportedly loaded with some of the oldest buildings in Newfoundland we may need all day to explore.
At breakfast we talked to guests who had done the Irish Loop and their comment was the roads are terrible and it takes twice as long as you would think to make the loop. One couple went yesterday and had lunch is Tresspasy. They had a long chat with the waitress and she was telling them that the Cod fishing industry has been so devastated that all the men have had to leave the town and go in to Canada to the oil rigs to find work. A population of 3000 is down to less than three hundred and mostly woman and children. The school for many years had a basketball team that was national champions, but this year there are only 47 students in the school from kindergarten to 12th grade so they have had to drop the program. Now that is a very sad commentary on what has happened to the local fishing industry and the folks whose families have survived on fishing for over 5 generations!
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